Panorama near Lucingano
 
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Lucignano d'Arbia - Asciano - Monte Oliveto Magiore - Buonconvento

-- click on thumbnails for larger image --

Monte Amiata looming through the early morning mist Downtown Asciano on Sunday morning

From Lucignano the route starts over the flat flood plain of the Arbia before begining the climb over the hill towards Asciano.

Along this stretch the looming shape of Monte Amiata is a constant companion on the southern horizon.

Welcome cafe in Piazza Garibaldi, Asciano

Monte Amiata rises to 1,738m and is an extinct volcano ... enough volcanic activity however remains to supply a number of thermal springs ... one of which I was to pass through later.

Fountain in Asciano

Fortunately even on a Sunday there are a selection of bars and cafés open in Asciano ... and for cyclists little encouragement is required to stop for a coffee and brioche.

Ripe for conversion?

From Asciano I turned south-east towards Val d'Asso.

Classic Tuscan skyline
A ravine dropping away from the road This spring had been particularly snowy in Tuscany

After a gentle start the road climbs more steeply up to a ridge and turns westwards.

In the heat of a May morning the road signs advising the use of snow chains seem rather incongruous.

The calachi (cliffs) close to Monte Oliveto Maggiore

Near the top the unstable calachi (cliffs) have been eroded to form steep gullies and ravines.

Almost at the highest point lies the Abbazia di Monte Oliveto Maggiore.

The gatehouse with (welcome) cafe alongside Mary and Jesus above the gatehouse's entrance

The gatehouse to the Abbazia contains a good café-restaurant and ... a good hour having passed since the last refreshment it was necessary to stop and sample their fare.

The Abbazia is rightly famous for a Renaissance fresco cycle a life of St Benedict.

The frescos are painted on the four walls of the Great Cloister.

The Abbazia Cool interior to the gatehouse

The cycle was begun by Luca Signorelli in 1497 and completed by Il Sodoma by 1508.

Sodoma, as well has having a liking for young men, maintained a sizable menagerie of pets - including badgers, apes, tortoises and mountain cats - many of which are depicted in the panels.

Monks waiting for the evil women Florentius sends evil women to the monastery!
Sodoma with his pet goose Benedict ... entreated by the monks ... produces water
Window in gatehouse Crenelations on the gatehouse

After a tour of the abbey's cloister it was prudent to re-visit the café to fortify oneself for the rest of the journey.

Flowers

From the Abbazia the road descends back towards the Valle d'Arbia.

On the way down, Monte Oliveto Maggiore can be glimpsed through the trees.

The descent continues for almost 10km with the wild crete scenery gradually changing to a rich agricultual environment as Buonconvento approches.

Looking back to Monte Oliveto View back to the Abazzia - with Chiusure in the background Shades of green
Buonconvento's northern gateway 'Modern' dwellings have windows pierced through the old walls

Buonconvento is a walled town, originally built in the 14th Century.

The walls are largely intact as is the North Gate - Porta Senese - with its arched entrance.

More recent builders have constructed dwellings just inside the walls and have pierced windows through the original battlements.

il calcio - football Flag used to indicate the contrade of the area

Like many Sienese towns Buonconvento is divided into contrade or districts.

Each contrada has its own coat-of-arms which is displayed on flags or plaques on the walls throughout the contrada.

Pregnant mothers are supposedly rushed back to their own contrada to give birth, so that their children inherit the relevant rights - although I didn't notice this happening when I was there.

Buonconvento's main street Painting

As the day cooled off more people came out on the streets - some playing football, one painting, - or, like me, having una birra or uno gelato at the local bar.

Throughout Tuscany the same few colours predominate - the emerald green fields, the blue skies, the red brick and the dark green or brown shutters.

Museo della Mezzadria Senese The Sunday market held outside the walls

The local Museum of Agricultural History however had been rather daring - going for pale blue shutters.

Just outside the town walls the local Sunday market was in full swing with local produce such as hams and cheese for sale along side shoes and clothes.

Balcony in Buonconvento - with sundial still going strong after 144 years Art Nouveau finishes

Several of the buildings in Buonconvento have Art Nouveau features - these stand out alongside the rather spartan exteriors of their neighbours.

Campanile in Buonconvento Street of Mercy A quiet courtyard
 

Kirby James

 
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