I woke on Sunday morning to the sound of heavy rain bouncing off the cobblestones outside our apartment. As I slowly ate breakfast the rain eased and I decided to risk exploring the hills north of Lucca.
I splashed through the puddles in Piazza Anfiteatro and rode down Via Fillungo past San Frediano to Porta Santa Maria.
After I passed under the walls the rain started again.
Before crossing the Fiume Serchio I sheltered under a tree to let the worst of the storm pass over. When I set off again the roads were streaming with water.
The route crossed the river and headed for the hills along the Strada del Vino Colline Lucchesi e Montecarlo - the Wine Road of the Lucchesi Hills and Montecarlo - although during my trip water was evident in much greater quantities than wine.
This road loops around a series of vineyards to the north of Lucca and allows visitors to sample the best local wines and olive oils.
At a couple of the junctions Gran Fondo directional signs were painted on the road.
Gran Fondo events are cycling competitions roughly equivalent to Sportives where riders are timed over a route of around 160-220 kilometers. Often the routes are over challenging terrain ... as this one appeared to be.
Several different Gran Fondo events are run in this area ... one being organised by former world champion Michele Bartoli.
A little further on in Vignale worshipers were rushing to 11 o'clock mass at the church of San Martino. Cars filled the small car park and others were lined up on the verges around the church.
After leaving the village I passed the Vipore restaurant. This is where Cesare Casella perfected his craft ... and earned a Michelin star ... before moving to New York.
'In my local dialect Vipore means viper. According to a local legend, Vipore was the nickname of the owner of my family's trattoria in the 18th century. It's also the name of the place where the trattoria is located. It was on a back road, used by bandits to avoid tolls, which connected Florence - a day's ride on horseback - to the sea. The owner supposedly behaved like a viper. He never attacked unless attacked first' - Cesare Casella.
Fortunately I didn't meet any bandits ... or perhaps cyclists aren't worth robbing.
Nor did I meet any vipers ... which are quite common in this part of Tuscany.
The road continued to climb ... although now less steeply ... past Pieve Santo Stefano.
Beyond Santo Stefano the road carved gently around the flank of Monte Castellaccio.
The sky slowly began to lighten ... but water was still streaming off the hillsides forming puddles in the road.
Amongst the trees the road forks.
The left fork continues to climb on up to Vecoli ... whilst the right turn descends to Castagnori and on down into the Freddana Valley beyond.
On passing the col the views to the south over to the mountains between Lucca and Pisa were left behind - and new vistas opened up to the Alpi Apuane to the north.
The road loops around a series of U-turns descending some 200 metres into the valley.
Part way down the village of San Martino appears ... and at the bottom the road crosses the Torrente Freddana and arrives in the village.
The route follows the main road a short distance and picks up the road heading towards Torcigliano, Loppeglia and Fiano.
About one kilometre out of San Martino I came across a small museum of old farm equipment alongside the road. Beyond the museum the road started to climb again.
Just beyond Torcigliano the climbing seemed to become harder and harder ... although the slope didn't seem to be any steeper ... eventually I realised that I had got a p*nct*re.
On the positive side the rain had stopped so I was able to patch it up ... and catch my breath ... in the dry.
As I set off again I could see the village of Loppeglia high on the hillside ahead.
The road looped round numerous bends as it climbed slowly towards the village.
On reaching Loppeglia I passed a small piazza with a war memorial.
A little higher ... in the Da Valentino restaurant families were assembling out on the covered terrace ... preparing for their Sunday lunch.
The only building higher than the restaurant was the Santa Pietro church perched ... together with its campanile ... on a knoll high above the village.
Just around the corner from the church was a woodyard.
Great baulks of timber were stacked by the roadside ... and some provided a perch for one thirsty cyclist to stop and take a drink.
After the rest ... the road contoured around the flank of Monte Torretta before descending into the Pedogna valley.
At the bottom of the valley the route joins the minor road which follows the river heading eastward to join the Fiume Serchio at Diecimo.
The gentle descent was in complete contrast to the undulations so far ...
... but was still sufficient to allow me to overtake a tractor towing a load of wood.
Further down the valley first scars of quarrying were apparent on the hillsides.
The slopes between Cune and Diecimo are also a popular site for paragliding ... but on this rather damp day none were in evidence.
The valley opens out as it approaches the Serchio ... and I passed strange flowers growing in marshland alongside the Torrente Pedogna.
After passing the tower of the 12th Century Santa Maria Assunta I turned north into the village of Diecimo.
This region was subject to intense fighting in the World War II ... the Germans having established their Gothic Line of defence in the widest part of the Serchio valley.
Fortunately Diecimo is now quiet ... and I wound through its narrow streets before joining the main road up the Serchio Valley.
The Lucca to Aulla rail line runs parallel to the road and river ... and north of Diecimo the track runs through a series of avalanche shelters to protect it from snow and rock fall.
After a short stretch of main road I turned off into Borgo a Mozzano. The peaceful streets were welcome after the busy main road.
Just to the north of the town is one of the regions best known attractions ... the Ponte della Maddalena which is probably better known as the Ponte del Diavolo or the Devil's Bridge
This elegant five arched 11th Century bridge is reputed to have been built by the Devil in return for the soul of the first person to cross it ... the Devil was outfoxed by the villagers who sent a dog across first.
The bridge is the start point for the 130 kilometre Gran Fondo del Diavolo which climbs a series of hills called Paradiso, Purgatorio, and Inferno ... (Paradise, Purgatory and Hell) ... I wondered whether I would soon be climbing one of them.
Soon after passing the bridge I turned into the village of Fornoli which has a notable bridge of its own ... the Ponte delle Catene (Bridge of Chains). This suspension bridge was built in 1842 and some claim that it was Europe's first ever suspension bridge.
The bridge crosses the Torrente Lima which I was to follow eastwards towards Bagni di Lucca.
The fast flowing Lima is chanelled by high stone walls through the village of Ponte a Serraglio.
I had hoped to follow the minor road along the north bank of the Lima ... but after unwisely ignoring the signs saying the road was closed ... I found that the way was indeed impassible.
I turned around, crossed the river and rode on to Bagni di Lucca.
The town was established on the site of health giving springs and in the 18th and 19th Centuries was an essential stop on the Grand Tour. The town's casino was established in 1835 and is claimed to be where roulette was invented ... times have changed and it is now the local Tourist information centre.
From Bagni di Lucca the route led over the biggest climb of the day.
I had some trouble finding the small road that climbs southward out of the Lima valley ... but eventually I discovered the sign pointing to Benabbio and Villa Basilica.
The climbing began immediately ... and after half a dozen zig-zags I could look back down on the rooftops of Bagni di Lucca and the silver thread of the Torrente Lima.
Before long I arrived at the village of Benabbio which is strung out along the road.
I passed the village's Romanesque church of Santa Maria Assunta with its solid stone walls ... and then continued the climb.
The road gains some 600 metres in climbing up through the wooded hillsides onto the Pizzorne plateau ...
...fortunately after an initial steep section the gradient settles down to a relatively modest 7%.
I passed the turn off for Villa Basilica ... managed to overtake a group of walkers ... and then arrived at the top at an altitude of 750 metres.
Ahead was 20 kilometres of descent ...
The road quickly drops down from the pass to the village of Boveglio.
I stopped briefly for a snack in the small square outside the Cavallino Bianco restaurant as the staff were tidying up after lunch.
Resuming the descent I swooped down between the trees ... and then had to brake sharply to negiotiate the sharp bends in Colognora.
The sun had now reluctantly emerged to provide some warmth.
The road drops steadily into the valley of the Torrente Pescia.
From about halfway down the scenery becomes increasigly industrialised ... with a mixture of disused and new factory buildings lining the banks of the Pescia.
The area has a history of paper making going back to the 15th Century ... with energy from water mills providing the motive power.
Many of the modern factories appeared to be involved in paper re-cycling .... with large bales of waste paper stacked outside awaiting processing.
As the valley flattened out I arrived at the touristy village of Collodi.
Collodi attracts tourists to the Parco di Pinocchio ... a theme park devoted to the puppet with a long nose ... and also to the Villa Garzoni with its magnificent formal garden.
I stopped for a cooling drink ... and then set off for the final few kilometres back to Lucca.
I followed the direct route along the busy N 435 road ... given more time I would have taken the back roads to the north.
Approaching Lucca I joined a bike path which dipped through an underpass and delivered me to the Porta Elisa.
On the otherside I the gate I returned to the quiet streets of the city ...
... now all I had to do was select a cafe ...
Kirby James
